By Ramin Ganeshram
The simplicity that marks El Salvadoran cooking might come as a surprise to Americans. "We have come to believe that all Latin or Caribbean cooking is spicy, but that's not the case,” said Himilce Novas, native New Yorker and co-author of Latin American Cooking Across the USA (Knopf 1997). "This is a very plain type of cooking, without a lot of spice.”
El Salvadoran food features a large amount of starchy vegetables such as yucca and plaintain, as well as a great deal of pork. Meals tend to be one-dish affairs with only two or three ingredients, and spices are limited to garlic and cinnamon, which are plentiful.
One common meal that is both inexpensive and nourishing is huevos fritos con arroz, or fried eggs with rice. Rice and beans, a favorite throughout Latin countries, is popular in El Salvador, too.
But simple does not mean boring when it comes to mealtime in El Salvador, and tradition makes up for what is lacking in bounty through sobremesa, which, literally translated, means "around the table” and refers to the practice of gathering at the table after the main meal is served and munching savory dishes. "Basically you might eat some cheese and a bit of fruit or nuts,” Novas said. "Food is served from a common dish or bowl, and it is an opportunity to talk and enjoy each other in more informal setting.”
El Salvador is known for one dish in particular: pupusas revueltos, a cornmeal patty stuffed with beans, cheese or pork, or a combination of these ingredients. Novas calls pupusas El Salvador's "most cherished comfort food.”
The following is adapted from "Latin American Cooking Across the USA”
by Himilce Novas and Rosemary Silva.
For filling:
1/4 pound small red kidney beans
1 tablespoon finely minced yellow onion
1 medium clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/8 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup grated Monterey Jack cheese
For masa (corn dough):
3 cups masa harina de maiz (corn masa mix)
2 cups water
1. Soak beans overnight in small bowl with water to cover, plus 3 inches. Drain
and place beans in medium saucepan with onion, garlic and water to cover, plus 1
inch. Simmer beans until quite soft, about 1 hour. Puree cooked beans with 1/4
cup cooking liquid and salt in food processor or blender until smooth. Heat
olive oil in medium skillet over medium-low heat and cook red bean puree,
stirring occasionally until it thickens, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and
cool to room temperature.
2. Combine corn masa mix and water and mix well. (Consistency should be that of chocolate-chip cookie dough.) Shape into patties 1/8 inch thick and 3 inches in diameter, then cover with damp cloth.
3. To assemble, spoon about 1/2 tablespoon each of beans and Monterey Jack cheese into center of a patty. Top with another patty and press edges of patties together to seal. No filling should be exposed.
4. Cook pupusas on dry nonstick griddle or skillet over medium-high heat, turning once until browned, about 4 minutes on each side. If using a regular griddle or skillet, brown pupusas in a tablespoon of butter over medium-high heat. Serve at once with tomato salsa. Makes about 14 pupusas.
Ramin Ganeshram is a regular contributor to Newsday.
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